Archive for August, 2009

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The New Wave in Straight Hair

August 11, 2009

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Attention all curly and frizzy-haired guys and dolls! This post is dedicated to the men and women who battle a life-long struggle with curly or frizzy hair.

We know about the infrared, ionic, tourmaline, etc…tools; and silicone, PolyfluoroEster, argan oil, etc…styling products–and we’ve tried them all. Some work with great success; others leave us feeling discontent.

Next is chemical straightening or relaxing treatments. The Brazilian, the Japanese–been there; done that. What’s next to conquer? Keratin.

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Now, yes, most people are familiar with BKT treatments (or Brazilian Keratin Treatment) which uses roughly 2% of formaldehyde, according to the StyleBell hair blog. (Which is an amazing resource for anything and everything hair-related.) The trend for the Brazilian straightener came about in early 2007. Formaldehyde is notorious for its carcinogenic connections–in nail polish and ultimately BKT. The reason being because formaldehyde converts into a poisonous gas once it’s mixed with heat–say from a flat iron or blow dryer, which are both used in all straightening treatments to create the results.

Allure magazine did a great article on BKT and its hazardous effects.

So what is the deal with keratin, and how are newer treatments different than the Brazilian or Japanese? Keratin is the dominant protein found in your hair, skin, and nails. When added topically to hair, skin, and nails, it is known to prevent breakage and to strengthen. Most times in these chemical straightening treatments, the keratin is part of the solution applied to the hair. Peter Coppola is most famous for altering this formula and using aldehyde–which is a safer form of formaldehyde and gasless when infused into the hair with heat. I was never good at chemistry, but from what I gather, aldehydes are found in essential oils and some plants. When formulated with keratin protein, the results are just right.

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Peter Coppola is the creator of Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy. Essentially, a system that includes keratin-based shampoos and conditioners to support the hero product–a hair straightening treatment. The results are shiny 95% frizz-free straight hair in any environmental condition. The distinction with Coppola’s treatment is that wavy or curly-types can choose to keep a bit of their natural shape if they don’t want to completely be rid of it.  Unlike its Brazilian or Japanese predecessors, Keratin Complex breaks down on the hair over time and through washing instead of the hair having to grow out of the straightener. Upkeep ranges between four to six months. At a going rate of $350 + for the Coppola service at your favorite salon–that’s a fair amount of time for re-booking.

Here are some random but essential tips about Coppola’s Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy:

  • Make sure your stylists/designer is certified to conduct the treatment. Only Coppola-trained and -certified professionals are allowed to perform the service. There’s no do-it-yourself or take-home kit for this treatment. In fact, Coppola won’t distribute it’s products to the public or an individual unless proof of certification is presented.
  • Maintain your results by using a sodium chloride and sodium lauryl sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Coppola’s system supports this rule by offering shampoo and conditioner formulated specifically to work  synergistically with the straightener. Some professional stylists I’ve talked to said Paul Mitchell’s Super Strong Daily Shampoo and Conditioner and Pureology are over-the-counter alternatives.
  • Don’t wash your hair for at least three days after treatment; unless you want to keep some of your hair’s natural shape, then wash two days after.
  • Single process color or highlights should be done prior to Keratin Complex. Coppola says that color can be done in the same day as the treatment, but in the service that I observed (see details/videos/pictures below) the color was actually evaporating when the flat iron was gliding over the hair. Some stylists suggest to do color service one to two weeks before keratin.
  • Pregnant women can NOT receive this treatment.

Now, lets see this thing in action! Laura Ciaramitaro is the Lead Hair Designer at Melt Salon & Spa on Newbury Street in Boston. Exclusively for Beauty Lens, she introduces us to her technique and advice as a hair aficionado.

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With eight years in the hair styling business, Ciaramitaro loves her work and the industry. During her hair services she always establishes a relationship with her client by prompting people with questions, discussing lifestyle, and reviewing hair history. “I want them to feel comfortable and to trust me,” says Ciaramitaro. “It’s the weirdest thing, but I rely on astrology–I swear to God. It gives me good insight on how to gauge a client,” explains Ciaramitaro about her design philosophy.

Trained and certified on Coppola’s Keratin Complex, Ciaramitaro walked me through her process of application. She makes sure that the hair is thoroughly cleansed with a clarifying shampoo about three times. Four times on virgin hair–two washes with clarifying shampoo and two washes with 10 volume developing creme to really open the cuticle and cleanse the cortex (or second layer) of hair.

Using no conditioner, she moves on to combing out the hair and blow drying.

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Next she sections the hair and applies Coppola’s Keratin Complex. *Notice how the single process color went from a dark chocolate brown to a lightened chestnut brown after the flat iron grazes over the hair.

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Then re-dries, and sections out again to flat iron. Coppola’s system also includes a titanium-plated flat iron complete with advanced features like: swivel cord, ionic/infrared benefits, heat dispensing vents, and 450 degree heat setting. “The most important things [for precise results] about this treatment are the correct shampoo and the flat ironing,” says Ciaramitaro. The keratin is bonded deeply into the cuticle by the heat of the iron to relax the hair, and thus providing the glorious results.

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If you are interested in finding out more specifics about Peter Coppola, and his treatment system, you can call the headquarters in Boca Raton, Florida: (561) 206-6050 or (888) 409-4445.

Melt Salon & Spa on Newbury Street offers this service starting at $375. The best part is that you receive a full-size 13.5 oz. of Coppola’s shampoo and conditioner included in the service. To book a consultation and/or appointment, or to discuss price quotes for hair length and hourly-time for treatment with Laura Ciaramitaro call: (617) 262-1116, or e-mail @ customerservice@meltboston.com.

How is your ‘do holding up? What’s your feedback on chemical straightening? Let me know!

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