The New Wave in Straight Hair
August 11, 2009
Attention all curly and frizzy-haired guys and dolls! This post is dedicated to the men and women who battle a life-long struggle with curly or frizzy hair.
We know about the infrared, ionic, tourmaline, etc…tools; and silicone, PolyfluoroEster, argan oil, etc…styling products–and we’ve tried them all. Some work with great success; others leave us feeling discontent.
Next is chemical straightening or relaxing treatments. The Brazilian, the Japanese–been there; done that. What’s next to conquer? Keratin.
Now, yes, most people are familiar with BKT treatments (or Brazilian Keratin Treatment) which uses roughly 2% of formaldehyde, according to the StyleBell hair blog. (Which is an amazing resource for anything and everything hair-related.) The trend for the Brazilian straightener came about in early 2007. Formaldehyde is notorious for its carcinogenic connections–in nail polish and ultimately BKT. The reason being because formaldehyde converts into a poisonous gas once it’s mixed with heat–say from a flat iron or blow dryer, which are both used in all straightening treatments to create the results.
Allure magazine did a great article on BKT and its hazardous effects.
So what is the deal with keratin, and how are newer treatments different than the Brazilian or Japanese? Keratin is the dominant protein found in your hair, skin, and nails. When added topically to hair, skin, and nails, it is known to prevent breakage and to strengthen. Most times in these chemical straightening treatments, the keratin is part of the solution applied to the hair. Peter Coppola is most famous for altering this formula and using aldehyde–which is a safer form of formaldehyde and gasless when infused into the hair with heat. I was never good at chemistry, but from what I gather, aldehydes are found in essential oils and some plants. When formulated with keratin protein, the results are just right.
Peter Coppola is the creator of Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy. Essentially, a system that includes keratin-based shampoos and conditioners to support the hero product–a hair straightening treatment. The results are shiny 95% frizz-free straight hair in any environmental condition. The distinction with Coppola’s treatment is that wavy or curly-types can choose to keep a bit of their natural shape if they don’t want to completely be rid of it. Unlike its Brazilian or Japanese predecessors, Keratin Complex breaks down on the hair over time and through washing instead of the hair having to grow out of the straightener. Upkeep ranges between four to six months. At a going rate of $350 + for the Coppola service at your favorite salon–that’s a fair amount of time for re-booking.
Here are some random but essential tips about Coppola’s Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy:
- Make sure your stylists/designer is certified to conduct the treatment. Only Coppola-trained and -certified professionals are allowed to perform the service. There’s no do-it-yourself or take-home kit for this treatment. In fact, Coppola won’t distribute it’s products to the public or an individual unless proof of certification is presented.
- Maintain your results by using a sodium chloride and sodium lauryl sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Coppola’s system supports this rule by offering shampoo and conditioner formulated specifically to work synergistically with the straightener. Some professional stylists I’ve talked to said Paul Mitchell’s Super Strong Daily Shampoo and Conditioner and Pureology are over-the-counter alternatives.
- Don’t wash your hair for at least three days after treatment; unless you want to keep some of your hair’s natural shape, then wash two days after.
- Single process color or highlights should be done prior to Keratin Complex. Coppola says that color can be done in the same day as the treatment, but in the service that I observed (see details/videos/pictures below) the color was actually evaporating when the flat iron was gliding over the hair. Some stylists suggest to do color service one to two weeks before keratin.
- Pregnant women can NOT receive this treatment.
Now, lets see this thing in action! Laura Ciaramitaro is the Lead Hair Designer at Melt Salon & Spa on Newbury Street in Boston. Exclusively for Beauty Lens, she introduces us to her technique and advice as a hair aficionado.
With eight years in the hair styling business, Ciaramitaro loves her work and the industry. During her hair services she always establishes a relationship with her client by prompting people with questions, discussing lifestyle, and reviewing hair history. “I want them to feel comfortable and to trust me,” says Ciaramitaro. “It’s the weirdest thing, but I rely on astrology–I swear to God. It gives me good insight on how to gauge a client,” explains Ciaramitaro about her design philosophy.
Trained and certified on Coppola’s Keratin Complex, Ciaramitaro walked me through her process of application. She makes sure that the hair is thoroughly cleansed with a clarifying shampoo about three times. Four times on virgin hair–two washes with clarifying shampoo and two washes with 10 volume developing creme to really open the cuticle and cleanse the cortex (or second layer) of hair.
Using no conditioner, she moves on to combing out the hair and blow drying.
Next she sections the hair and applies Coppola’s Keratin Complex. *Notice how the single process color went from a dark chocolate brown to a lightened chestnut brown after the flat iron grazes over the hair.
Then re-dries, and sections out again to flat iron. Coppola’s system also includes a titanium-plated flat iron complete with advanced features like: swivel cord, ionic/infrared benefits, heat dispensing vents, and 450 degree heat setting. “The most important things [for precise results] about this treatment are the correct shampoo and the flat ironing,” says Ciaramitaro. The keratin is bonded deeply into the cuticle by the heat of the iron to relax the hair, and thus providing the glorious results.
If you are interested in finding out more specifics about Peter Coppola, and his treatment system, you can call the headquarters in Boca Raton, Florida: (561) 206-6050 or (888) 409-4445.
Melt Salon & Spa on Newbury Street offers this service starting at $375. The best part is that you receive a full-size 13.5 oz. of Coppola’s shampoo and conditioner included in the service. To book a consultation and/or appointment, or to discuss price quotes for hair length and hourly-time for treatment with Laura Ciaramitaro call: (617) 262-1116, or e-mail @ customerservice@meltboston.com.
How is your ‘do holding up? What’s your feedback on chemical straightening? Let me know!
Very interesting blog thank you for posting. I am currently using a set of ghd straighteners and they do a pretty good job of keeping my hair in order. If I ever considered having my hair chemically straightened would my hair irons still be ok to use or would I not even need to use them at all?
Thanks Melissa for the comment! I love ghd products–straighteners and style line. If you were to go with any type of chemical straightener you may just use the flat iron to touch up certain pieces. The point for the straighteners is to add shine, smoothness, and (most importantly) to relax the curl in the hair. Basically allowing you to not have to work so hard to get the hair straight.
So don’t feel like your ghd is pointless if you go “chemical.” Your hair can still benefit from the ion and tourmaline features.
This commentary was started on a LinkedIn discussion through the Cosmetics and Beauty Network. It provides more of science behind formaldehyde and beauty treatments.
Doug Schoon
MS, Chemistry at University of California
President/Co-Founder of Schoon Scientific
Schoon Scientific specializes in scientific, technical and regulatory issues pertaining to the cosmetic/beauty/personal care industry, both retail and professional. We handle everything from product development to quality control to expert witnessing to labeling/warnings, ingredient declarations and any other matters related to domestic or international regulatory requirements.
Hi,
I enjoyed reading your article, but it contains some misinformation. Formaldehyde is a dry gas, not a cosmetic ingredient. These products contain formalin, which is actually methylene glycol. This is what is used in some nail hardeners and is not used in nail polish.
It the myth that nail polish, contains formaldehyde as an ingredient. When using certain types of polymeric resins (created using many ingredients including formaldehyde) some nail polish may contain a few parts per million formaldehyde in equilibrium with methylene glycol (as a trace contaminant), but these levels are trivial and could never cause cancer. This is a scare tactic used by advocacy groups and those selling nail polish that is “supposedly” safer (another myth).
Although inhaling large quantities of formaldehyde gas over long periods of time can in rare instances cause an unusual nasal cancer, it is nothing more than fear-based marketing hype to say that formaldehyde is notorious for causing cancer. (I don’t blame you for getting this wrong, this is a common myth.)
It is true that heating formalin produces low levels of formaldehyde gas, however, air quality studies I’ve done in salons indicates that if proper ventilation is used, especially in the form of local source capture exhaust systems, the exposure to formaldehyde gas is below the OSHA safe limits.
Finally, companies using other “aldehydes”, have switched to the use of “glutaraldehyde”, which in my opinion is not safer, and more potentially problematic for users. None of them are “gasless”.
If you’re looking for more information on these systems, please contact me. I’d be happy to help you get the straight story. I know quite a lot about these systems.
Beauty Lens:
Thanks for the comment, Doug! After reviewing your profile, I will definitely keep in touch for future pieces that require more science/chemistry –related information.
For my keratin post, the goal was really to inform curious parties about what keratin is, how Coppola Keratin Complex treatment is executed, and how to care for the hair after treatment.
As an educated writer in the health and beauty industry, I take great pride in the research and interviewing that I do—I suppose journalists in any field does. For my blog I aim to be careful not to mislead, insinuate, or force my opinions. My goal is to “magnify” industry news, products, ingredients, or “myths.” To break information down even further so people do not continue to be mislead by marketing or fear tactics.
I wanted to address some of the points you made—not for dispute, but to let people know what further information supports my research.
***
I mention in my post that, “Formaldehyde is notorious for its carcinogenic connections–in nail polish and ultimately BKT.” According to science writer, Ruth Winter, M.S., in A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, formaldehyde is listed as an ingredient and references it as one. The entry also explains controversies over the years concerning formaldehyde use in “nail hardeners, nail polish, soap, and hair-growing products.” Winter’s entry finishes with stating that: “The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel concludes that this ingredient is safe to the great majority of consumers.”
The Allure magazine article [“Scared Straight”] posted in my blog entry (which details formaldehyde more directly related to hair straightening) reiterates this information as well.
I agree with Doug’s point about formaldehyde (along with parabens, propylene glycol, alcohols—just to name a few) levels being “trivial” and not significant enough to cause cancer. Keep in mind that many of these tests/studies being done are on animals, like rats and mice, and they are being directly injected with large amounts of these properties for extended periods of time—so, yes, I would think some type of cell mutation would be occurring.
Finally, I was told from trained professionals at different salons on Newbury Street, in Boca Raton (Coppola company home base), and by Peter Coppola representatives, the aldehyde contributes to the hair relaxing and is used as a preservative in Coppola’s Keratin Complex. Also, when heat is added to the hair after the treatment, the aldehyde in Keratin Complex does not emit a gas or an odor like formaldehyde does in the BKT; therefore, making it a “safer” and “gasless” alternative treatment.
Thanks for the provocative discussion. I hope these points provide readers with avenues for research and get people to inquire more about the beauty industry.
Doug Schoon:
The information I provided about formaldehyde not really being a cosmetic ingredient is new to most people in the cosmetic industry. In fact, it’s new to most doctors and scientists. Without a deep understand of chemistry, most would not know that formaldehyde gas almost instantly converts to methylene glycol when exposed to water.
As Co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC) of the Professional Beauty Association, I am trying to help get the word out so that people understand that despite what some advocacy groups claim, formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient.
It is a fact that exposure to high concentrations of formaldehyde gas for long periods under rare circumstances causes an unusual form of nasal cancer. In other words, its rare for people to get cancer from formaldehyde exposure.
This information is distorted and improperly used against our industry in an unfair way. Advocacy groups use this to try and insinuate that cosmetic companies intentionally put carcinogens in our products, which is far from true.
I don’t agree that studies like this are based on injecting large amounts of ingredients into animals. That type of testing has been done in the past, but it’s not the only thing that scientists and toxicologists look at these days. There are many other types of tests which can be done, so epidemiologist and scientists look at a wide range of data when making these determinations.
Is true that glutaraldehyde is a preservative, but it’s not typically a cosmetic preservative. When using in a keratin treatment products its main function is as a cross-linker for keratin, which is where the straightening properties come from. You cannot heat, these products with a 450°F flat iron and not have vapors released into the air. None of these types of treatments are “gasless” and in my opinion, glutaraldehyde is not safer. Also, there’s no chemical called “aldehyde”. That is a chemical class containing many thousands of different substances.
Finally, odor is not an indication of safety. Many things that smell wonderful are harmful and many things that smell terrible are harmless. You cannot tell how safe a substance is by its odor.
Hope this information is useful. I hope you have a great day and feel free to contact me if you need more in
Beauty Lens:
Thanks Doug for explaining the inner-workings of what salon professionals/trainers may be generalizing about the process. I’ll be sure to post these comments to my blog so readers understand the terminology and science better.
I appreciate your time and attention to the topic.
I am the owner of Modern Solutions Inc. Soon to have our name changed to Aerovex Systems. Our most recent innovation is the “Chemical Source Capture System”. Designed with the input of a select number of cosmotologists, and evaluated by world reknowned salon industry Scientific Advisor, and President of Schoon Scientific, Dana Point Ca. This ventilation system was designed for both formaldehyde and non-formaldehyde hair straightening treatments. And, is a vital component and part of the protocol required to protect cosmotologists from excessive inhalation of chemical vapors, which can have an adverse affect on their respiratory health. (For more information on the Chemical Source Capture System, contact Jeff Cardarella, President, Modern Solutions Inc., modernsolutionsinc.com, 800-288-2023, cell# 608-358-6065. (See the CSCS in action on youtube, type in “BKT Source Capture System”).
alternative treatments that are based on natural and organic stuffs are the best `
i love alternative treatments because it is simple and does not have nasty side effects `’`