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This commentary was started on a LinkedIn discussion through the Cosmetics and Beauty Network. It provides more of science behind formaldehyde and beauty treatments.
Doug Schoon
MS, Chemistry at University of California
President/Co-Founder of Schoon Scientific
Schoon Scientific specializes in scientific, technical and regulatory issues pertaining to the cosmetic/beauty/personal care industry, both retail and professional. We handle everything from product development to quality control to expert witnessing to labeling/warnings, ingredient declarations and any other matters related to domestic or international regulatory requirements.
Hi,
I enjoyed reading your article, but it contains some misinformation. Formaldehyde is a dry gas, not a cosmetic ingredient. These products contain formalin, which is actually methylene glycol. This is what is used in some nail hardeners and is not used in nail polish.
It the myth that nail polish, contains formaldehyde as an ingredient. When using certain types of polymeric resins (created using many ingredients including formaldehyde) some nail polish may contain a few parts per million formaldehyde in equilibrium with methylene glycol (as a trace contaminant), but these levels are trivial and could never cause cancer. This is a scare tactic used by advocacy groups and those selling nail polish that is “supposedly” safer (another myth).
Although inhaling large quantities of formaldehyde gas over long periods of time can in rare instances cause an unusual nasal cancer, it is nothing more than fear-based marketing hype to say that formaldehyde is notorious for causing cancer. (I don’t blame you for getting this wrong, this is a common myth.)
It is true that heating formalin produces low levels of formaldehyde gas, however, air quality studies I’ve done in salons indicates that if proper ventilation is used, especially in the form of local source capture exhaust systems, the exposure to formaldehyde gas is below the OSHA safe limits.
Finally, companies using other “aldehydes”, have switched to the use of “glutaraldehyde”, which in my opinion is not safer, and more potentially problematic for users. None of them are “gasless”.
If you’re looking for more information on these systems, please contact me. I’d be happy to help you get the straight story. I know quite a lot about these systems.
Beauty Lens:
Thanks for the comment, Doug! After reviewing your profile, I will definitely keep in touch for future pieces that require more science/chemistry –related information.
For my keratin post, the goal was really to inform curious parties about what keratin is, how Coppola Keratin Complex treatment is executed, and how to care for the hair after treatment.
As an educated writer in the health and beauty industry, I take great pride in the research and interviewing that I do—I suppose journalists in any field does. For my blog I aim to be careful not to mislead, insinuate, or force my opinions. My goal is to “magnify” industry news, products, ingredients, or “myths.” To break information down even further so people do not continue to be mislead by marketing or fear tactics.
I wanted to address some of the points you made—not for dispute, but to let people know what further information supports my research.
***
I mention in my post that, “Formaldehyde is notorious for its carcinogenic connections–in nail polish and ultimately BKT.” According to science writer, Ruth Winter, M.S., in A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, formaldehyde is listed as an ingredient and references it as one. The entry also explains controversies over the years concerning formaldehyde use in “nail hardeners, nail polish, soap, and hair-growing products.” Winter’s entry finishes with stating that: “The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel concludes that this ingredient is safe to the great majority of consumers.”
The Allure magazine article [“Scared Straight”] posted in my blog entry (which details formaldehyde more directly related to hair straightening) reiterates this information as well.
I agree with Doug’s point about formaldehyde (along with parabens, propylene glycol, alcohols—just to name a few) levels being “trivial” and not significant enough to cause cancer. Keep in mind that many of these tests/studies being done are on animals, like rats and mice, and they are being directly injected with large amounts of these properties for extended periods of time—so, yes, I would think some type of cell mutation would be occurring.
Finally, I was told from trained professionals at different salons on Newbury Street, in Boca Raton (Coppola company home base), and by Peter Coppola representatives, the aldehyde contributes to the hair relaxing and is used as a preservative in Coppola’s Keratin Complex. Also, when heat is added to the hair after the treatment, the aldehyde in Keratin Complex does not emit a gas or an odor like formaldehyde does in the BKT; therefore, making it a “safer” and “gasless” alternative treatment.
Thanks for the provocative discussion. I hope these points provide readers with avenues for research and get people to inquire more about the beauty industry.
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